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The image can be flipped between mirror (rear view) and facing (front view), which ensures you can use the camera as rear backup camera or front camera optional. 【License Plate Backup Camera with High Compatibility】The wireless range can be up to 100ft in the open area, so you can mount the camera in any position of your vehicle.

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you just need to mount the monitor, attach the rear camera to the license plate and connect it to reverse light or constant power. The transmitter is cleverly designed inside the backup camera, no wires connecting from monitor to rear camera, all of these simplify the installation.

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【Easy Installation Wireless Rear View Camera】The suction cup mount allows you to install the monitor on windshield or dashboard.

Therefore whether it is sunny or rainy, hot or cold, day or night, the camera always performs well.

【Ideal Back up Camera Systems for Car】The waterproof standard of this camera is IP 68, the highest and lowest temperature resistance is -4☏~149☏, and the lumen rating is 0.1 at low light night.

Together with the adjustable parking lines that fit different heights camera installation place makes CS-2 a trusted parking assistant.

【Accuracy – Top priority for parking Camera】The reverse camera comes with 110 golden angles to avoid image distortion.CS-2 wireless backup camera for trucks is the best choice for reversing/monitoring.

Equipped with a PC1058 sensor, the rear camera provides vivid footage, which restores what you see behind your vehicles directly.

【Back Up Camera with Stable & Vivid Image】With digital wireless signal, CS-2 license plate car backup camera delivers a stable image without any interference from other signals.

If so, you’ll need a drill, and some guts. You may need to make a hole somewhere to get the camera wires into your trunk. Always cover your wire connections to keep them secure, clean, and away from other wires.

Electrical tape or heat-shrink tubing.

Most cameras and displays come with enough connectors to install everything, but if you need to cut a wire or redo a connection, having a variety pack of connectors can save you from a mid-project trip to the hardware store. Use plastic tools near anything delicate. Removing little trim pieces with a screwdriver or metal blade can mar plastic or scratch paint.

Flathead and Phillips-head screwdrivers-you’ll come across something that needs to be popped out or unscrewed somewhere along the way.

A simple set for under $30 should do the trick. At minimum, you’ll need to disconnect the negative terminal on your battery, and you may need to loosen a taillight or other part.

A basic socket-wrench set or open-end wrench set.

If not, get some that can easily strip the ends of smaller, 24- and 26-gauge wire, too.

Small-gauge wire strippers 22-gauge will do, if you have them.

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About two to four hours of free time, and a bit of moxie.

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Most DIYers shouldn’t bother with flush-mount cameras-they’re best left to professional installers. In some situations, such as on a truck’s tailgate, this kind of camera can be the best solution, but it requires drilling a visible hole into your vehicle, and it leaves no margin of error in determining the vertical angle of the camera: If the surface you drill into leaves the camera pointing too high or low, you’re stuck with it.

Flush-mount installations: You insert this type into a car-body part, such as a bumper or a trunk lid.

Depending on the model, you attach a center mount with simple clips, adhesive strips, or more-permanent screws.

License-plate center mounts: Almost as easy to install as frame replacements, these designs position the camera on a tiny, tilting neck that attaches behind the top of your license plate.

The camera is embedded into a frame that you screw into the same holes as your license plate the frame goes across the top of the plate or all the way around, like a normal license-plate frame.

License-plate frame replacements: These models are the easiest to install, and the best for most people doing it themselves.

Backup cameras